Is fall a good time to plant?
Published 12:00 am Tuesday, October 3, 2006
- Susan Fleming at Ace Nursery checks the leaves of a healthy tree  one that gets enough water and is able to fight off insects and disease. When planting in the fall, make sure to keep watering until the ground freezes to ensure that your new tree, shrub or perennial will be healthy enough to survive the winter. When spring comes, treat the planting like a new one by keeping it well watered and giving it a dose of fertilizer. If a tree gets too little water, the edges of the leaves will start to brown. If a tree gets too much water, the leaves will start to droop and look sickly. (Baker City Herald/Kathy Orr).
By LISA BRITTON
Though Baker County’s growing season is winding down, autumn is the perfect time to start planning for next year.
andquot;I’m doing all my planting now,andquot; said Lisa Constantine of Oregon Trail Landscapes and Nursery.
And that includes trees, shrubs, perennials and bulbs all elements that will be established and ready to grow when spring rolls around next year.
The basic technique is the same for planting trees, shrubs and perennials, though trees need a little extra consideration.
andquot;The first thing you do is put the right tree in the right place,andquot; said Susan Fleming at Ace Nursery.
When assessing your landscape for the perfect place for a tree, check for overhead powerlines and underground utilities.
andquot;Willows have very aggressive root systems they seek out water,andquot; Fleming said.
The climate is another consideration. Baker County is a solid Zone 4, rated to a the minimum temperature of 30 degrees below zero.
Shopping locally makes it easy because nurseries stock specimens that are hardy enough to survive our hot summers and cold winters. Also, the nursery specialists can offer advice on what types of trees or shrubs would work best in the environment you’re working with, such as full sun, part sun or full shade.
Another consideration is height: do you have room for a 10-foot tree or a 50-foot tree?
Once the perfect tree is chosen, it’s time to get it in the ground so it can start sending out roots before the soil freezes.
The first task is to dig a hole, which needs to be twice the size of the container the tree has been living in.
andquot;Twice the size both wide and deep. Then the new roots will have nice, worked-up soil,andquot; said Susan Fleming of Ace Nursery.
She also suggests roughing up the slick sides of the hole to give the roots a less-resistant path of growth and give good drainage for water.
andquot;In the heat of summer, it can bake and drown your tree,andquot; Fleming said.
The next consideration is the soil. If you’ve had a tough time growing plants, Fleming suggests making a mixture of one-third compost and two-thirds native soil to provide nutrients for the roots.
andquot;If you continually put organic material in (the soil), it just makes it better,andquot; she said.
The next step is to backfill the hole with some dirt because trees and shrubs should not be planted any deeper than the soil line where the soil hits the trunk.
andquot;A lot of people plant a tree too deep then it will smother and die,andquot; Constantine said.
Make sure to pack the soil so the tree won’t settle, she said.
The next step is to take the tree out of its container (some trees might also be bound in burlap, which must be removed) and loosen the root ball with your hands, a garden tool or a hose.
andquot;If it’s extremely root-bound, you can cut across the bottom, but it’s best to loosen the roots by hand,andquot; Fleming said.
Constantine says you can also gently spray the root ball with water to loosen the soil.
Next, put the tree in the hole and start packing dirt around the roots until you hit that soil line.
andquot;When winds come up, if the soil’s not packed down the tree will lean,andquot; Constantine said.
Fleming says you can also stake the tree to give it some stability. Use two stakes, both about two feet away from the tree. Use something soft, like a rubber tube, to loop around the trunk, then tie that to the stakes with rope.
Make sure not to make it so tight the tree can’t sway in the breeze.
andquot;You don’t want to hold the tree from moving,andquot; Fleming said.
The stakes should be removed after about a year.
Also, don’t use metal fence posts, which are very tough to remove.
andquot;T-posts will rip up the new roots,andquot; Fleming said.
Quench its thirst
Now it’s time to give the new planting a good, long drink of water.
andquot;Don’t expect a sprinkler system to water your trees,andquot; Constantine said.
andquot;Water’s the most crucial thing for a tree or shrub or perennial,andquot; Fleming said.
Constantine suggests turning the water on so it just dribbles out of the hose, and then letting the water soak the soil around the tree for at least half an hour.
Fleming said you can also ring a soaker hose around the tree at the drip line (as far out as the branches) and let it seep overnight.
Monitor the soil to make sure it stays moist.
andquot;If the weather stays cool, you might not need to water too much,andquot; Constantine said. andquot;If it’s really hot, you might have to water every day.andquot;
Water, Fleming said, is the best defense against an ailing tree.
andquot;If it’s well-watered and healthy, it can fight off bugs and diseases and take care of itself,andquot; she said.
She said you can also put a 2- to 3-inch layer of mulch over the roots to keep the moisture in the ground.
Once winter hits, you don’t need to worry about your trees until spring.
andquot;In the spring, treat it like a brand-new planting,andquot; Constantine said.
She suggests giving it fertilizer, such as B-1, and making sure the soil stays moist.
For more information about fall planting, contact:
o Ace Nursery, located on Pocahontas Road across from St. Elizabeth Health Services, at 523-6595
o Oregon Trail Landscapes and Nursery, 600 Elm St., at 523-3708.